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JAMMU AND KASHMIR
Introduction
The lofty snow clad mountain ranges, sylvan landscape and remarkably
good-looking people made this state a virtual paradise. Of Kashmir,
it was said, "Gar bar-ru-e-zamin ast; hamin ast, hamin ast,
hamin asto" or " If there be a paradise on earth, it is
here, it is here, it is here." This state, at the extreme north
west of the country, is bounded on the west and north by Pakistan,
on the northeast by China and on the southeast and south by the
Indian states of Himachal Pradesh and Punjab. The State lies between
32.17" and 36.58" north latitude and east to west, the
State lies between 73.26" and 80.30" longitude. More than
90 percent of the state is mountainous. From southwest to northeast
the region contains the fertile Jammu and Punch plains, the coniferous
Himalayan foothills from 2,000 to 7,000 feet, the heavily glaciated
Pir Panjal range at 12,500 feet, the valley of Kashmir at 5,300
feet, the Himalayan ranges above 20,000 feet, the upper Indus River
valley at 11,000 feet, the stark, barren plateau of Ladakh and the
remote Karokaram range. The Indus, Jhelum, Chenab and Tawi are the
principal rivers while the Dal and Wular are the major lakes. The
climate varies from alpine in the northeast to subtropical in the
southwest.
PLACES TO VISIT
DRASS
 The
town of Drass, 60 km west of Kargil on the road to Srinagar, is
located at an altitude of 3,300 m in a relatively flat and open
space in the centre of a valley. It has extensive willow groves
along the river. In winter it is covered with a thick blanket of
snow. Drass experiences the lowest temperatures in the Ladakh valley
and is said to be the second coldest inhabited place in Asia. The
mercury may drop to as low as 40 degrees Celsius below freezing
point, and communication with the outside world is often completely
cut off. During the spring and summer, however, the valley around
the township becomes very picturesque as the gently undulating hillsides
turn into lush green pastures splashed with a variety of fragrant
wild flowers.
Its inhabitants are mainly of the Darad stock, an Aryan race believed
to have originally migrated to the high valleys of the Western Himalayas
from the Central Asian steppes. They speak Shina, which, unlike
the Tibetan-originated Ladakhi dialects spoken elsewhere in Ladakh
region, belongs to the Indo-European linguistic family. Their ancestral
sport, `horse-polo' which the Darads play with particular zeal,
resembles our modern polo.
The Drass valley starts from the base of the Zoji La pass, the
Himalayan gateway to Ladakh. For centuries its inhabitants are known
to have negotiated this formidable pass, to transport trader's merchandise
across and to help stranded travellers to traverse it, even during
the most risky period in the late autumn or early spring, when the
whole sector remains snow-bound and is subject to frequent snow
storms. By virtue of their mastery over the pass they had established
a monopoly on transportation for trading, during the heydays of
the Pan-Asian trade. A hardy people, with the fortitude to tolerate
the harshness of the valley's winter, the inhabitants of Drass can
well be described as the guardians of Ladakh's gateway.
Drass is a convenient base for a 3-day long trek to the Suru valley
across the sub-range separating the two valleys. This trek passes
through some of the most beautiful upland villages with flower sprinkled
meadows on both sides of the 4,500 metres high Umbala pass which
falls en route. The trek to the holy cave of Amarnath in neighbouring
Kashmir, which starts from Minamarg below Zoji La, takes 3 days
and involves crossing a 5,200 metres high pass. Drass also offers
numerous shorter treks and hikes to the upland villages.
How to Get There
Buses plying between Srinagar and Kargil/Leh touch Drass. Local
buses leave Kargil in the morning and afternoon for Drass
DACHIGAM
 Dachigam
forms almost half of Dal Lake's catchments area and is one of India's
most panoramic wildlife reserves. In the early 19th century, 10
villages were relocated outside the boundaries of the reserve, thus,
the name Dachigam which means 'Ten Villages'.
Spread over 140 sq. km, spanning heights between 5,500 to 14,000
feet above sea level, the reserve has a wide variety of landscape
like rain forests, grass lands, broad leaved woodlands, coniferous
forests, bare rock faces and alpine pastures. Considered home to
some unique Himalayan fauna, the hangul or Kashmir stag is the most
endangered species of red deer in the world
How to Get There
The nearest town and airport is ~Srinagar~, 22 km away. It is 310
km from Jammu, the nearest railway station. A metalled road links
Srinagar with Lower Dachigam. Upper Dachigam can be reached on foot.
GULMARG
 Gulmarg,
or meadow of flowers, is an apt term indeed for this idyllic flower-laden
meadow at an altitude of 2,730 metres, in Baramulla district. Situated
at a distance of 51 km from Srinagar, it is a saucer-shaped bowl
overhanging the main valley of Kashmir. The towering peaks above
the meadow are covered with dense forests of tall conifers and gigantic
fir and pine trees, all vying with each other to touch the azure
skies. A clear day offers some breathtaking views from Gulmarg :
fields of rice; clusters of walnut, pear and mulberry; meadows,
ridges and forests that lead to the snow slopes of Khilanmarg; the
majestic Nanga Parbat peak over a 100 km away.
An equally popular destination in winter, it is coated with a blanket
of thick, soft snow, turning its gentle slopes into some of the
finest ski slopes. Surrounded by crests of white, the air seems
to sparkle against the ice as skiers flash past in the hush of the
snow. The resort has one T-Bar Lift, three modern ski lifts and
a chair lift. The beginner's slope makes learning easy, with perfect
snow conditions and a gentle gradient. Trained instructors are available
and equipment can be hired. Skating, curling, and ski bobbing are
some of the activities offered. A cable car, takes tourists up to
Kongdori.
Gulmarg's international lush green golf course is the highest in
the world. Equipment is available on hire for the visitor allured
by the golf greens here. Gulmarg was once an important trekking
base and the Gulmarg-Khilanmarg-Apharwat-Alpather is still a great
trek.
Landmarks
Outer Circular Walk
The road encircles Gulmarg and provides scenic views of the massifs
of Nanga Parbat, Harmukh, the rugged slopes of Ferozepur, Sunset
Peak and Apharwat Ridge.
Khilanmarg
A 40-minute journey through valleys of wild flowers from Gulmarg
to Khilanmarg offers a breathtaking view of the majestic peaks with
their reflections in Wular and other lakes.
Alpather Lake
Streaks of floating ice in this triangular lake, nestled in a hollow
under the shadow of Apharwat mountain are a visual delight. A well-graded
pony track joins Apharwat Ridge with Gulmarg.
Ningle Nallah (8 km)
Flowing from the snow bed, the nallah springs from near the Apharwat
Ridge, cutting through thick pine forests along the way.
Lienmarg
This grassy meadow offers excellent camping sites.
Ferozepur Nallah
On the banks of this rushing stream is a popular tourist spot called
Waters Meet.
Baba Reshi
Surrounded by a courtyard of carved deodar, the shrine of the saint,
Baba Reshi, is linked to Tangmarg and Gulmarg by a motorable road.
The latticework shutters here provide a glimpse of old architecture
JAMMU
Situated on the banks of the Tawi river against the ravishing backdrop
of the majestic Trikuta ranges, the winter capital of the state
is Jammu. It is believed that King Jambulochan, considered the place
to be auspicious because he saw a tiger and goat drinking water
from the same pool. He laid the foundation of a new city, Jammu
Nagri. In 1832, Gulab Singh merged Jammu with Kashmir to form the
present state.
Jammu has a large number of temples and shrines, the soaring spires
of which seem to perforate the skies above. Katra, 48 kms from Jammu
is the starting point of the heavily thronged shine of Vaishno Devi.
The various tribes who belong here are the sturdy Dogras who live
in the plains, the Pahadis in the hills, and the nomadic mountain-dwelling
tribes of Gaddis and Gujjars. Agriculture is the main occupation,
while handicrafts typical of Jammu are wooden ornaments, intricate
bamboo work, straw fans and rush baskets
Landmarks
Raghunath Temples
 Centred
in the heart of the city, the Raghunath Temples constitute among
the biggest groups of shrines in north India. Multi-hued marble
sculptures and exquisite wall paintings attract attention to these
legendary temples
How to Get There
Air: Indian Airlines operates flights between Jammu and Delhi, Amritsar,
Chandigarh and Srinagar. A private airline also operates a daily
fight to Jammu from Delhi.
Rail: Jammu Tawi is an important railhead on the Northern Railway
line. Express trains connect it with Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai, Calcutta
and Amritsar.
Road: Located on the National Highway 1A, Jammu is linked by a network
of roads to Amritsar, Chandigarh, Delhi, Katra, Srinagar, and Manali.
PAHALGAM
 Ninety
five km east of Srinagar at an altitude of 2,130 metres, Pahalgam
is unspoiled by the ravages of progress. Away from the grind of
daily life, Pahalgam is situated among the soaring mountains, glistening
glaciers, gushing silvery streams of ice water and dense pine and
cedar forests with soft whistling winds and revitalising air.
Pahalgam is an ideal place for an adventure sports enthusiast. It
offers wonderful treks, skiing, mountaineering and camping sites.
Facilities for roller-skating, table tennis, badminton and cards
are available at the Pahalgam Club. One can take a temporary membership
at the Pahalgam natural golf course.
En route to Pahalgam one comes across the beautiful Lidder Valley
with tourist spots at Mattan, famed for its springs and the hillside
cave shrine of Aishmuqam. The river Lidder is an angler's delight
and even an amateur can catch a rainbow trout from the rushing streams.
The large brown bear is a natural inhabitant of the thick forests.
Pahalgam is in Anantnag district which is famous for Kashmir handmade
"gabbas" and exquisitely designed wooden toys.
Pahalgam is the base camp for pilgrims going to Amarnath Cave.
Landmarks
Chandanwari (16km: 2,923m)
It is famous for its snow bridge.
Baisaran (5 km: 2,438m)
Pine forests dot this meadow which presents a picturesque view of
the snow-clad mountains. The snow covered Tulian lake at an altitude
of 3353 m is 11kms from Baisaran.
Sheshnag Lake (27 km: 3,658m)
The waters of this greenish blue lake are covered with ice till
June.
Panchtarni (40 km)
It is the confluence of five streams and gives Panchtarni its name.
A good camping site.
Amarnath Cave
Pahalgam is the base for the religious trek to the abode of Lord
Shiva. A narrow spiralling path from Panchtarni leads to the Amarnath
Cave. The massive ice shivlingam is visited by thousands of pilgrims
between July and September.
SRINAGAR
 Srinagar
is a city of great antiquity. This paradise vale reflects the moods
of the changing seasons. Spring breathes life into a frozen world
and the air is heady with the fragrance of a million flowers that
bloom on trees, shrubs and creepers. Summer heightens the effect
and autumn is poignant in its colours of warm introspection. Winter
brings with it a blanket of snow. Sometimes the Dal Lake freezes
and beneath a leaden sky, the aroma of roasted chestnuts, promise
warmth and comfort. Hari Parbat, Srinagar's 'Takht-i- Sulaiman'
hill forms the backdrop to the city. The placid Jhelum flows through
the heart of Srinagar and the houseboat-filled Dal and Nagin Lakes
dominate the scene. From a tourist's point of view, a recommended
initial exploration of Srinagar begins on board a shikara that follows
its course through the heart of the city, past willow-shaded channels
and canals, under bridges. Deep green rice fields and bridges across
rivers, splendid Mughal gardens, water lilies and lotus. Lines of
doongas are moored along the banks, homes of the boat people. Women
sit at the prows, pounding grain or calling to each other. As a
major artery, the river is punctuated at regular intervals by landing
stages leading up to narrow labyrinth-like lanes which connect the
streets beyond, so that there is a constant flow of activity between
water and land. Homes, shops and schools, places of work and worship
cluster around the waterfront. Roof gardens and orchards tumble
over the river wall, and carved or latticed windows add a touch
of timelessness.
Srinagar is the place for an aquatic sports enthusiast to try kayaking,
canoeing, water surfing and angling.
Landmarks
 Dal
Lake
The Jewel in the crown of Kashmir is eulogised by poets and
praised by tourists. Dal Lake changes its moods through the day.
The lake can be viewed in its full grandeur by walking or cycling
down Boulevard Road. It is divided in four parts by causeways known
as Gagribal, Lokut Dal, Bod Dal and Nagin. The fascination for houseboats
led to the creation of a large number of luxurious floating hotels.
Shikaras and houseboats vie for attention with their imaginative
names. The increase in tourism has also had its downside. The Dal
Lake shrunk to half its size, from 22 sq. km. to about 11 sq. km
in 50 years, and is a reminder of the degradation in the Himalayan
lake eco-system.
Wular Lake
The jade green waters swirl around a curious bubbling spring in
the centre of the lake. Zaina Lank, a small picturesque island covered
by the ruins of a mosque, adds to the beautiful setting of the largest
fresh water lake in Asia.
Mughal Gardens
 These
gardens have their own magical charm in the sparkling ripples of
cascading streams and fountains, limpid pools and airy pavilions.
Laid out for the pleasure of the Mughal Emperors, they are ablaze
with multi hued flowers and they astound the senses with their scents.
Nishat borders the Dal Lake and was laid out by Asaf Khan, Empress
Nur Jahan's brother. Chasma Shahi, the Royal Spring, with an illuminated
garden, is the smallest. The spring from which it derives its name
is credited with medicinal properties. Shalimar, the Abode of Love,
was laid by Emperor Jahangir for his beloved Queen Nur Jahan and
is the most famous of the three.
Nagin Lake
A paradise for an aquatic holiday, its waters are otherwise calm
and peaceful. On the banks are a club, a bar and a tea pavilion.
Manasbal Lake
This small clear blue water lake is a bird watcher's paradise. Chirping
birds amidst blooming lotuses. There is a small rest house, two
huts and a cafeteria.
Hazratbal
This mosque on the shores of the Dal Lake, houses one of the most
sacred Muslim relics, a hair of Prophet Muhammad, brought here in
1700 AD by Khawaja Noor-ud-Din from Bijapur. On specific days in
the year, it is shown to the faithful who gather in the courtyard.
Hari Parbat
According to legend, the hill grew out of a pebble dropped by the
goddess Parvati when she wanted to crush a demon. The ruins of a
fort, an imposing evidence of a historic past, crown it.
Shankaracharya Hill
A historic temple atop the hill on the site of the Takht-I-Suleiman,
or throne of Solomon, provides a panoramic view of Srinagar's busy
thoroughfares and shimmering blue lakes.
Khir Bhawani (25 km)
A marble temple with a gold plated dome stands here in the midst
of a pool formed by spring waters.
Awantipur(29 km)
On the Srinagar - Anantnag highway, Awantipur has the ruins of two
imposing temples built by its founder, King Awantivarman in the
9th century AD.
Achhabal (56 km)
Jahanara Begum, daughter of Shah Jahan, designed the Mughal garden
with its cascading fountains and pavilions. Nearby is a trout farm
for seed fish. There is a tourist bungalow and huts along with a
cafeteria.
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